Category Archives: Argentina Part I

Palta Rice

So I’m sitting here at the computer trying to think of how I am going to summarize my New Year’s in San Marcos Sierras, Cordoba.  Do I just tell it like a timeline of events?  Just share a few highlights of those two days?  Only pictures?  I feel like the 31st of December and the 1st of January were some of the most eventful days of my trip over the summer, although every day brought new and wonderful (or, in some cases, difficult) experiences.  I really don’t know how to write about them.  Yes, part of that es porque tomé mucho alcohol…but you know…

I may leave some of the good parts out, but here is my attempt to summarize my time in San Marcos through words and pictures, which hardly do it justice.  Upon arrival, we followed Roci and Oli down the dirt road around the cute plaza and up a quaint hill to the “camping,” or camp ground, where we’d be staying.  We saw no one except the people who got off the bus with us (who were few), and the town was in a state of peaceful quiet that I felt like I hadn’t heard at this time of day since Colorado.  It really was a beautiful day, the sunlight pooling and rippling throughout the plaza.


It was a toasty climb up the dirt hill to the campground, about 10 blocks from the bus station (which was about the width of the entire town, if that), but totally worth it when we arrived at the adorable campground.  I feel like a nerd saying this, but it reminded me of some place in the woods where fairies would live.  A glen, I suppose.  There was a little gurgling creek with overly sized bridges connecting the resilient tufts of  grass on its banks.  Large trees canopied the lots, which were only at about half capacity with tents.  In the middle, there was a large house painted with swirling designs and illustrations in vibrant colors.  An old man greeted us and introduced himself.  Roci and Oli pretty much handled the entire conversation, asking about prices and where we could pitch tents.  They told Maxi and I that we could borrow their extra tent for the time being, but Maxi still set up his hammock anyways. He preferred it.  We found a spot behind the house by the teeny little bathroom and a pile of rusty-looking junk.  My dumpster-diver curiosity getting the best of me, I went and checked it out but there wasn’t much to salvage—the chipped top to an old washer, a shoe that looked right out of a storybook fisherman’s lake, some scrap metal, an empty bag of chips crumpled in a ball, some empty bottles of Quilmes, etc.

Clearly if I continue to be this detailed I’m never going to finish, so here are some pictures of the campground, courtesy of Maxi:

P1110493 P1110499 P1110502

We didn’t get any pictures of the little creek or the main part of the campground, but you can get the idea 🙂  I think my favorite part were the showers, simply because it had been nearly a week since I’d washed properly.

Anyways, after we set up the tent, I scraped off a week of sweat and dirt in the shower then went with the girls to get some food for dinner while Maxi took his turn.  Oli studies medicine at Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA, the free public university)  and Roci was double majoring in acting and directing/cinema.  They both lived mere blocks from me back home in Buenos Aires!  It was nice to talk to some other females for once and take a break from Max.  We actually got along quite well but he was beginning to get on my nerves as it had pretty much just been us two for the entire first week.  I’m sure I wasn’t the most pleasant company after that long either.

It was looking like it would rain when we got back to camp, so we moved everything important inside the tents and I moved on to enjoy the next luxury I had missed in the last week—electricity!  I charged my camera, my phone, Maxi’s laptop, everything.  Then we uploaded pictures to Facebook and let everyone know that we’d yet to be slain by an axe murderer.  Afterwards, I went down to the plaza with Roci and Oli to drink te re re (cold mate with orange juice) and we ran into the whole group from last night.  It was about 4 PM but they’d already emptied a healthy number of cartons of wine.  It was New Year’s Eve after all!

Their group seemed to have grown yet bigger, now including a couple of men in their late 30s/early 40s who seemed like maybe they’d gotten a bit too early of a start on the day’s drinking and kept trying to speak Portuguese to me (Practicamos para carnaval!)  Someone had hollowed out a cantaloupe, written 2013 on it and presented it as the community flagon for the wine.  It did feel a bit classier than drinking straight from the carton.  I passed on the first few rounds though and stuck with mate.  The last few days had worn me out!

photo 2

We spent most of the time talking with Nico about his time in Japan trying to get dual citizenship and the cultural difficulties of growing up as a Japanese-Argentine with Japanese parents.  By some crazy coincidence Roci’s ex-boyfriend turned out to be in town, so she and Oli went to say hi.  Eventually, we all got kicked out of the plaza by the police (at 5 PM.)  We weren’t being rowdy and the cops were nice about it, we were just a big group of youngsters pre-celebrating the New Year and they saw it as a volatile situation.  We retreated to the river and continued the festivities.  I texted Maxi, but I guess his phone was in airplane mode so I couldn’t get a hold of him 😦

photo 5(2)

^^The group at the river

At the river I talked with John for a really long time about how traveling changes you.  Some of the kids in the group with us had been on the road since before they turned fourteen and had seen things some people wouldn’t even dream to see and some things no one should ever have to see.  It was the first conversation of many that I would have about the monumental changes that I was going through—that we were all going through.  Through the conversation with John I began to really understand myself and my own morphing philosophies about the world.

I am not going to explain the entire conversation, because it was long and I can’t do it justice online, but we spoke much of the innate connection among all of us despite language, cultural, and physical barriers.  A smile is universal.  Bancame un toque (bear with me a second) and then I’ll put fortune-cookie Autumn away, promise.

photo 1(2)

^^Cool face we made while chilling by the river

I became infected with a certain magic during my trip that still sloshes through my bloodstream, pumps through my four chambers and races all the way to my fingertips every second.  It influences my ideas, actions, words, everything.  If you read my last post, then you know about Maxi and I’s phrase: We are always lucky.  It was through this cycle of positive thinking that good things kept happening, that we stayed safe, and that we met amazing people.  If there’s anything I learned from my trip, it is that, despite life’s challenges, perseverance and optimism will always make things ok in the end.  Life is much bigger than the hardships we face and we will always struggle to grasp just how massive the bigger picture is.

photo 4

^^John and I by the river

The second major theme of my trip that John and I discussed, and that I’m still astounded at daily is nearly impossible to explain as well.  To try and properly explain this I have to tell you about a super cliché graduation speech I heard in 2009.  It was the graduation of my boyfriend at the time.  High school sweetheart.  First love.  All that fun stuff.  Anyways, I’d arrived late and was trying really hard not to be awkward with his entire extended family who I was convinced didn’t like me.  Needless to say I was a little distracted from the ceremony…

If I remember right, the teacher was my ex-boyfriend’s track coach or something and he really admired him so I made my best effort to listen at least to that part.  The speech was cliché in almost every way—the cheesy anecdote intro paired with the loaded question about which fish you want to be in the pond followed by a brief inspirational biography and an attempt to wrap it all up on both a witty and uplifting note.  I vaguely remember being much more concerned about reapplying my lip gloss for the pictures and whether or not he would like the sappy picture collage I’d framed for his graduation gift.  Never would I have realized how much I’d identify with that speech in later years.  The speaker spoke about a concept he had come to find as the main propeller in his life—a concept he’d termed “coincidance.” “Coincidance” was his explanation of how little coincidences occurred in life almost like they were planned in a sort of choreographed dance.  To my 16-year-old self, that was just cheesy and extra fluff to the rest of the graduation speech, but the more time I spend here in Argentina, and especially as I traveled, the more I recognized these “coincidances.”  Some of the things that have happened to me still seem so surreal.  You’ll see as I continue the memoir of my summer.

photo 5(1) - Copy

^^Bryan and I by the river

Anyways, it started to drizzle a little and we all decided we better cook something before nightfall, so we headed back to camp.  For dinner, Maxi and I made “palta rice”, which soon became our favorite meal of the trip.  Palta is Spanish for avocado and while I wasn’t a huge fan of avocadoes, I certainly became one.  Max shared his love of avocadoes with me and I’m totally hooked now.  We’d mix two or three soft avocadoes with tomato in a pot of rice and add some soy sauce.  It sounds like an awkward mix but it was delightful.  We paired it with some bread and mutually agreed that the meal was a success—YUMMMM x UH-FFINITY.


^^Cool metal T-rex in San Marcos Sierras

Going to continue this later, I’m hungry now 😉

Chau chauBesos!

Day 5: ¿Cómo se dice “bizarre”?

It’s been over three and a half months since I returned from my summer trip and I’m still only on the fifth day of summarizing the adventures.  This took place on the 30th of December, 2012.  Sorry if this post is a bit (or a lot) strange and devoid of pictures.  I don’t have any to share really :/

Maxi and I successfully stow-awayed to Cruz del Eje with the kids we met on the bus.  It was dark outside when we got off and when the driver gave us our backpacks, I was already drained.  I swallowed my exhaustion and dutifully followed the group only slightly dragging my feet.  We only walked two or three blocks before we found the others they had planned on meeting up with.  There were so many of them!  Altogether we were at least fifteen.  Everyone had dumped their backpacks against a cement wall in this plaza-type area and were sitting in a circle passing around a carton of wine and telling jokes, talking, and playing games.

I was totally exhausted and had a hard time keeping up with the Spanish but managed to stay awake.  Whenever the wine supply got low they’d pass around a baseball cap; those who could contribute would and they’d go buy more wine to share.  If the baseball cap fund came up short they’d take their bowling pins and metal ring and go juggle/do tricks for a few pesos to make up the difference.  It was a pretty chill system actually.

In the middle of the night some kids came up on their BMX bikes asking if we had marijuana.  I was shocked.  They looked about eight years old.  Several people in the group were surprised too but didn’t do much more than turn them away.  A half hour later the youngsters came back asking for a lighter and promising to return it if we gave them one.  This was by far not the strangest or most shocking thing we saw that night, though.  In the wee hours of the morning we left the plaza and headed to look for a place to sleep.

We were on our way to a park by an irrigation ditch to lay out the tarp and fall asleep when a throng of people following a pick-up truck and yelling/chanting passed by.  I hardly had more than two mouthfuls from the disgusting carton wine, yet I found myself questioning if I had been drugged or was hallucinating the current scene before my eyes.  It may have been the most bizarre and uncomfortable thing I have witnessed in my time in Argentina.  A long wooden pole was planted in the bed of the truck, attached to the back window.  Tied securely to the pole with thick rope was a stout naked man in his late forties or fifties.  His hair was gray and greasy, covering his face, head, and the rest of his corpulent body in stubbly patches.  He had the skin of a man who had worked under the sun for many years, leathery and burnt.  He didn’t seem to be very conscious, head lolling from side to side and eyes almost indistinguishable from the creases in his face.

The crowd of followers, no more than twenty, were all men of a similar age, rowdy and riotous.  They were spitting and throwing wads of trash and bottles at the man.  I couldn’t tell what random pieces of obscenities they were yelling out of unison, but the whole scene incited a sharp fear and confusion in my chest.  Swirling police lights added to the chaos of the scene as a caboose of police cars followed the procession, sirens silent.  The parade moved at about five miles per hour.  I looked around to the others in our group who seemed to notice but were nonplussed.  Maxi met my jolted expression, widened his eyes at me back, but only shrugged.

What the hell was that?  Maybe we weren’t in the best part of town, and yes, weird things happen in different countries, but I was trying to fit this scene into a logical file of my brain and it just didn’t belong.  The closest thing I could think of was some sort of Ku Klux Klan abomination or a hate crime, but there were police cars there and seemingly no effort to at least mask whatever was going on being made.  If I had to put words on what I saw I would say lynch, mob, ritual, torture, I don’t know?

We turned a corner and slowly left the absurd exhibition behind as we made for a quiet camping spot.  My senses had in no way been compromised, except for sleepiness, but I’m still not sure it wasn’t a hallucination.  The image of the naked man swaying in his unconsciousness in the back of the little truck is still starkly fresh in my mind.  I really don’t understand what happened.  I feel ashamed that I just stood there and watched before shielding my eyes from the perverseness of the display, but I’m sure that there was nothing more to be done.  I just prefer not to think about it (is that wrong as a human being?  To just ignore a thing like that? I’m not even sure what happened…)

Anyhow, my guilt upon witnessing such a thing and succumbing to the typical bystander behavior aside, we settled down by the little irrigation creek and I lay out on Maxi’s tarp, layered in clothing to keep me warm.  The others stayed up for some time, playing trivial Mexican drinking games, smoking, singing, and sharing swigs from the final carton of wine.  I tried to chill out and not think about how so very unordinary my life had become within the last week.  I didn’t want to be scared, so I wasn’t, but fear still licked at my throat ready to bite on a whim.  Sleep did not come easily, but it did come in time.

I woke up first, my ball-of-clothing-pillow trying to escape from under my head.  It was a bright sunny day and the streets were quiet.  I rose, shed a few layers of clothing, administered a few layers of sunscreen, and rinsed my face with the cool water of the ditch.  One by one, the others dragged themselves from their dreams and dazedly began to wrap up the menial camp we’d made.  Someone bought a couple loaves of hard bread for breakfast-type sustenance.  We were packed up and headed out within fifteen minutes of the last person waking.

I was in a strange mood.  Indifference, I would call it.  Things had changed so much in the last week.  I had changed.  I don’t think I had the capacity to comprehend my life at the moment, so I just allowed myself to be numb and detached from everything going on that morning.  Luckily nothing too surreal took place.  We lugged our packs a few blocks to a street corner mere blocks from the bus station we’d arrived in.  The group split in two to go “work” enough to pay for bus tickets to San Marcos Sierras, the next proposed destination.  Once my pack was no longer my main source of discomfort and safely on the ground with the others, I recognized my hunger.

I crossed the street and bought bananas, frosted flakes, and some milk for Maxi and I.  Bananas soon became one of our main meals because, unlike most fruit, they don’t need to be washed.  It was a much needed relaxation to sit against the building on the sidewalk, spooning nutrients into my body and watching the jugglers.  They were really some of the most incredible jugglers I had ever seen.  I don’t know if that is saying much, as I’ve seen very little juggling in my day…but they really were talented.

After breakfast, two of the girls, Roci and Oli, announced that they were going to head on to San Marcos Sierras and would meet the others there.  Maxi and I decided to tag along with them—the bus ticket was only like 8 pesos after all.

IMG_1787 P1110474 P1110475

Plot Twist!

Maxi and I entered the bus station in Carlos Paz as two dirty, smelly, and exhausted backpackers.  We were resigned to take the first bus that would get us closer to La Rioja (our chosen New Year’s destination) that we could find.  Bus stations are a bit disorganized in Argentina though.  I guess I don’t have much grasp of a Statian-modeled bus station to compare them to but I suppose if I were to take a bus in the States I’d search for a Greyhound time schedule online.  It’s not super common there to take buses cross-country, at least from what I gathered during my first 19 years of life in the USA.  It is here though.  Argentina is the eighth largest country in the world and, with almost 40% of the population living in Buenos Aires Province and the rest scattered across the varying land of the nation, there’s a high demand for long-distance bus travel.  I’m getting off topic though.


The majority of bus stations are set up in cement buildings with several different “booths” for each bus company.  Walking in you might feel kind of like you’re at a mall or a strange type of market.  Each company runs their own business and uses their share of the platforms.  It isn’t like looking up airline tickets online and finding the cheapest company.  You have to go ask each separate bus company for a list of their times and prices, so it takes a bit of research if you’re not really sure where you are going except “north.”  Sometimes, when you purchase a ticket they just give you a slip of paper with no time or platform number or destination.  You are, at that point, responsible for figuring things out.  It doesn’t seem very secure to me, and I think Maxi was a bit frustrated by the lack of organization too, but hey, TIA (This is Argentina.)


Luckily, Carlos Paz’s bus station wasn’t too huge.  First I went to bum a more detailed map of the area from a tourist booth.  I actually ended up in a 30-minute conversation with the student intern there.  He was studying Chemistry in Cordoba and really interesting to talk to, giving me some advice about where to stay in La Rioja, suggestions for what to do, and how to get there.  After talking to him, I asked a couple of companies for schedules while Maxi guarded our things.  I found out that there was only one company that would take us north this late in the day.  It was $50 pesos per person, though, just to the point where the route changed and headed to our chosen city; that was 5000% more expensive than hitching a ride, ,more even.

We discussed it, were kind of irritated, but eventually decided that we didn’t really want to sleep in the bus station and preferred to at least get to a vantage point where we could hitch a ride.  Eventually, we settled on tickets for halfway to the turn off, meaning we’d be on the bus for about an hour and a half, get halfway there and then go camp in Capilla del Monte.  We waited for the bus to get there (at around 7:30 PM.)  I practiced the guitar while Maxi searched for honey roasted peanuts and raisins—he couldn’t stop craving them after the excellent choice of snack food I’d offered on our first hitch hiking ride in the Fiats.  But he came back empty handed and we got on the bus hungry, sleepy, and in need of showers.


The bus decided they didn’t have enough people so they waited in the terminal another thirty minutes to see if anyone would join in.  Max wasn’t the only one frustrated with the system but we were both at least glad to have cushion-y seats.  No one else got on in the next half hour as it began to get dark outside.  We’d probably have to find a hostel once we got to Capilla del Monte instead of camp, definitely exceeding our daily budget, but oh well.  We finally set off and it wasn’t five minutes before I got bored of taking funny pictures of Maxi snoring and joined in on the Z’s. I woke up disoriented and a bit dizzy.


The bus seats were so much more comfortable than anywhere I’d slept in the last few days and I had slept long and hard.  Only problem was, I’d slept long and hard.  I quickly woke Maxi and asked him what time it was.  We assumed the bus driver would have told us when to get off since we’d only paid for half of the journey…but it had been an hour and forty five minutes since we’d dozed off.  We were both kind of panicked.  If we were at all accurate in our calculations, we’d missed our stop.

There were more people on the bus now, even though it was still largely empty.  I turned to the people next to us, who also looked like stinky young travelers with a thirst for adventure.  They said we hadn’t missed our stop, that it was the next one, but were naturally interested in where we were from and where we were going so we started chatting.   That’s how we met John, Braian, Juan, and Cynthia.  They were all from different parts of South America backpacking around and making enough to move from destination to destination by doing malabares (juggling and street performances) at street corners or traffic lights.  They asked us what we were doing in Capilla del Monte and we responded that we were trying to find something cool to do for New Year’s.  In less than five minutes we were invited to spend New Year’s with them; we could just stow-away on the bus for an extra half hour and get off in Cruz del Eje.  They were meeting some friends there and were going to go to a little mountain pueblo called San Marcos Sierras to hang out and spend New Year’s there.


^^Cynthia, Maxi, Braian, and John

Maxi and I just looked at each other and grinned.  This was the feeling I loved about this trip.  I very rarely felt unsafe or that things would not work out.  The phrase, that we’d repeat whenever we were worried about getting stuck somewhere or things not working out, “Siempre tenemos suerte”, (We are always lucky) was born in this moment.   I can’t even explain how things just seemed to fall perfectly into place while we hitchhiked through the north.  They just…did.  Yes, we had our fair share of rough nights, but things always seemed to work out like this.  Don’t know where to spend New Year’s?  Well, let’s just relax about it.  Sure to find something.  And that we did. 😉  We decided to tag along with these random kids we’d just met to Cruz del Eje.  The bus driver didn’t even blink an eye when we got off a half hour later than what we’d paid (he probably would have taken us all the way to Bolivia without noticing…)

San Marcos Sierras turned out to be one of my top three favorite places we went during the trip.  It wasn’t so much the place as the people and the things that I learned.  I’ll tell you why next time because I’m procrastinating on studying for my Management midterm, but I’ll write soon!  No promises this time, since I tend to break those 😉



The Cookie Incident and How I Got Over My Fear of Strangers

In general, I am a very independent girl.  I don’t like to have things done for me and I like to think I’m self-sufficient.  Even when I was a baby I refused to eat unless I could hold the spoon myself because I just don’t like asking for help!  This has certainly caused me a great deal of trouble in the past, especially with school, and is something I’m trying to work on.

So, at first, hitchhiking was naturally very hard for me.  I felt like I was soliciting people for charit-ous rides.  In reality it is nothing like that, but my fierce independence was left stubbornly struggling with the idea that people were really giving us a ride out of the pure goodness of their hearts.  One man we hitchhiked with from Cruz del Eje to Deán Funes put it like this (in Spanish):  “I actually don’t pick up hitchhikers for any humble reason at all.  It’s purely selfish.  When I was younger I hitchhiked all of southern Argentina and now, picking them up is my rare opportunity to relive that now that I have a family and am settled down.”  A lot of people who gave us rides had actually been hitchhikers in their youth and therefore felt more inclined to let strangers into their cars.  Others had never picked anyone up before but were bored and wanted someone to talk to.  Each driver was a unique and incredible character; the next time I go I’m going to make a point of at least taking a picture of every person we ride with to visually document their stories.  They all contributed to my picture of Argentina’s warm, social culture and diversity.


^^taken from World Inhabit

Despite our first few lucky rides, though, I still felt uncomfortable verbally asking people for rides.  I much preferred standing on the side of the road with a sign and letting people stop out of their own curiosity.  The problem is, that’s not always effective.  This was the case for us once we got back to Carlos Paz after Playa de los Hippie.  We managed to get a ride really quickly from the trailhead of the playa by a couple (or a brother and sister, I couldn’t tell) who were going back to their hometown of Carlos Paz.  They were sweet and talkative, but Maxi and I were totally brain-dead tired and with caras de culo (mad at each other) because of the cookie episode after hiking out from the beach.  I’ll tell you what happened, but I can’t promise I’m not still ‘opinionated’ about the incident:

After only a few hours of sleep on the beach, a little bit of a hangover, and a long hike out under Cordoba’s stifling blanket of summer heat, we emerged at the top of the hill on the road back to Cuesta Blanca as a pair of ravenous, sweaty backpackers.  The fruit stand I told you about was open and busy with tourists chatting over a beer or fellow hippies refueling with snacks.  We flung our things to the floor, I took my shoes off (greeted by many awkward glances, but it felt marvelous so I didn’t care), and Maxi sat down.  He bought food the last time so it was my turn.  I had eleven pesos, which wasn’t much, but we just planned on buying a couple of apples or peaches.  I waited in line for what seemed like forever and was about to abandon all dignity and lay down on the cool tile floor in the middle of the store when my number came up.  They were out of fruit.  ;agsoiahsgoihwaegih Rawr.


Well, thinking on my feet and looking behind the counter I chose an economical bag of cookies that would at least hold us over until we got to a real supermarket.  I was positively starving and beat as I got back to the table and slumped into the chair across from Maxi.

He just shook his head, “No, we can’t eat these.  They have meat in them.”  If you didn’t know, both Maxi and I are vegetarians.

“Uh…?”  I was kind of just gaping at Maxi, lacking the energy to even bring my jaw to close.

“Yeah, they have beef fat, read the ingredients.”  I scanned the ingredients and sure enough, the twentieth ingredient or so was “grasa vacuna.” I lazily dragged my eyes back up and stared at him.

“See? All of the cookies here have it.”  I looked back down at the tiny font as if I’d missed something.  Nope.  Still there.  I’d never realized that the cookies I’d been eating for months had beef fat in them.  Suprisingly, I haven’t died from them yet.  Looking back at the line for food though, now twice as long, I almost did.

“Ok, well,” I sighed, “we won’t buy cookies again, but… I already bought these and the line is going to take forever again and…I dunno.  Can’t we just make an exception this one time and eat them?”

Maxi raised his eyebrows.  “No…I won’t eat them. It’s not about making an exception; it’s about the cow that died to make the grease for those cookies.  If I made exceptions all the time, I wouldn’t be a vegetarian.”

Now, I love Maxi.  He was a great trip companion and he put up with a lot from me…but in that moment I’ll tell you what I wanted to do: I wanted to tear open the bag of cookies, stuff three in my mouth to momentarily satisfy my growling tummy, and take another handful to crush and crumble in his hair all while releasing a near-inhuman snarl of frustration.  Here’s your stupid beef fat cookies!!! I had just walked a long way uphill with my heavy pack in the heat, waited in line for twenty minutes, and I just wanted my f*****g cookies.  But I didn’t do that.

Instead, I swallowed, took a deep breath and aimed one of my well-known teeth-grinding glares straight into Maxi’s eyes.  He just innocently asked if I could go find something else to eat as if my glare had no effect on him. Verbally making it clear to how unhappy I was about this, I melodramatically got up and all but stomped back over to the counter (as best I could barefoot.)  I managed to cut the line after a couple of customers and trade in the HUGE bag of cookies for two alfajorcitos, not even the size of my fist, that lacked sufficient dulce de leche and tasted mildly stale.

Consequently, I was already in a sour mood when we were going back to Carlos Paz, to say the least.  When the man and woman (I don’t want to call them a couple if they were brother and sister…it feels weird) dropped us off, we got some real food and parked at a gas station, researching how to get to our next destination.  I held a sign for a while to get out of the city, then Maxi held it, then me again, then Maxi…and so on.  Eventually Maxi suggested we start asking individual drivers who were filling up and see if we could convince them on a more personal level.  I already felt weird holding a sign and accepting rides from strangers—asking them directly was like selling myself or…I don’t know, but I didn’t like it.  I refused and instead sat unhappily with all of our things while Maxi went and did the dirty work.  Maybe I was being bitchy, but I just felt like it would come across wrong for a girl to ask a ride from random strangers.  It went against the core lessons of everything I had learned in preschool.


I went to the bathroom to change and rinse my face in the sink.  When I came back, I found Maxi using his broken Spanish to try and convince a young couple in their thirties to give us a ride.  The man’s girlfriend looked extremely skeptical about the whole thing as he tried to convince her that it wouldn’t be a big deal to just drive us to at least the bus station.  That’s where I stepped in. 😉

I told them that we had been sitting there for a couple of hours trying to find something and we had just resigned to taking a bus—that we’d been traveling for a few days and were exhausted.   The girlfriend seemed to warm up to the idea a little bit seeing that Maxi was traveling with a girl.  Remember, girls aren’t psycho axe murderers, we’re little innocent lambs who smell like flowers and love puppies.  During the ride they both relaxed considerably and told us it was the first time they’d picked up hitchhikers.  Even though they weren’t really taking us more than a few kilometers, they warmed up to the experience so much that by the end of the ride they told us they’d have invited us to dinner if they didn’t already have tickets to a theater show.  As we got out, the man gave us the rosary from his rear-view mirror “for our journey.”  Even though I’m not really religious, the gesture was touching and I still have the rosary hanging in my room to remind me of the kindness of the people we met on the road.


As I had more and more positive experiences with hitchhiking and discovered both the selfish and selfless reasons that drivers had for letting us tag along, I became more comfortable asking for a lift.  I still don’t feel completely at ease going up to a truck driver in a gas station and asking where they’re headed, but I don’t feel like I’m asking if they want a little ‘company’ either.  I would say that hitchhiking can be explained like many people explain the irrational fear of snakes (that I personally feel I share with the other sane people of the planet…):  They’re more afraid of you than you are them.  It’s true.  Just like the average person would be scared to hitchhike, the average driver (at least in the US) would be scared of picking one up.  Once you draw away the curtains of fear you find that the sun is shining and it’s a very positive experience.

P.S.  The magic of the river at Playa de los Hippie magically cured my rash.  Turns out I wasn’t stung in my sleep by a lethal scorpion!  Hooray!  Sure did give me a scare though…

Peace, Love, and Fernet


The sunlight softly feathers across my skin.  Mmmm warmth.  No, this is uncomfortable.  I hazily drag my blanket further into the shade and continue to snooze.

I roll over, sweaty and sticky.  Time to move again.

We followed the shade all the way up into the trees, 30 meters from the beach and slept in until ten.  That’s a difficult thing to do when you are sleeping outside and the light starts to harass you at 5:30 in the morning.  I managed though, considering the night that I’d had.  Maxi, luckily, had slept through the entire episode of me crying, yelling, shivering, and sitting in burning embers to ease the freeze that had enveloped every inch of me.  No fair.

After the man with the flashlight had gotten way too close to our camping spot for comfort, I stealthily army crawled back over to Maxi in hopes of waking him again.  No such luck; but being diligently quiet and discreet effectively concealed us anyways.  I spent the rest of the night dozing off only to wake up every fifteen or so trembling with cold again and repeatedly singing my clothes in the fire to stay warm.  The sun was a very welcome guest in the morning, but only for a half hour or so before I felt suffocated with heat.  Funny to think how I would’ve given anything to feel that way only four hours earlier, but I digress.


We rounded up our stuff at around noon.  I bathed in the river for the first time since the hostel in Rosario—three days without a shower.  I was hoping that would be the record for the trip. Hahahaha, yeah right.  Maxi chided me for using shampoo and conditioner but my hair was so disgusting. 😦  I learned not to care eventually, but the first few weeks I had to learn to ease up on the hygiene.

The desert climate was in full blast by eleven thirty as we tried to obscure the remains of our campfire.  Families were coming to the beach to lounge and spend the day away from the city on the weekend, so we needed to get a move on and figure out what we wanted to do.  I had no desire to spend another night of misery freezing my ass off on the beach but we decided to talk about it over lunch.


As we were putting the finishing touches on the campfire cover-up, an official-looking guy came up to us asking if we’d spent the night there.  Do I play the innocent, naïve yankee who doesn’t speak Spanish?  Do I run?  Running was pretty much out of the question since Maxi and I still hadn’t perfected our psychic communication and all speed would be lost with my multiple bags involved.  Innocent, naïve yankee it was!  He told us that it was illegal to camp on the beach but my wide baby eyes kept him from giving us a ticket.  Instead he was actually very helpful.  He told us about this beach that people usually camp on called “Playa de los Hippies.”  Beach of the Hippies.

I peered down at my orange, pink, blue and white flowy bombachas (kind of like harem pants but with light fabric) and insane flip flop tan.  Yep, sounded right up our alley.  We gathered our things and went to the bridge to follow the man’s directions.  I figured out who the mysterious flashlight man was.  Apparently we weren’t the only vagrants on the beach that night.  Two guys, around their late twenties, with dreads, guitars, and backpacks were pushing sand over what used to be a fireplace just meters from our crime scene of last night.  It might have been cool to spend the night with them but too late.  Hippie Beach here we come!


^^Our campsite at Hippie Beach 🙂

As we crossed the bridge and took the turn off for the road that we were told to follow to the trailhead for the beach, a woman in an orange vest stopped us.  She was a kind of tourism coordinator and handing out maps and pamphlets to the people around.  We got another warning about the illegality of camping by the side of the river here but she was also really nice.  She gave us a pamphlet and told us to be careful…there were scorpions around here.  While beginning our walk I skimmed the pamphlet.  There were two types in these parts; one that was super poisonous and would kill you within a few hours, and one that was capable of ruining your next couple of days depending on where it stung you.  Both were characterized by a red bumpy, itchy rash, potentially followed by swelling, dizziness, vomiting, and of course, death.  I suddenly became hyperaware of the itchiness of my skin and looked at my arms only to begin to panic in earnest.  Red bumps seemed to be popping up all over my arms.  I looked at my shoulders, my chest, my legs…down my pants.  Yep, there too.


^^Hard to see…but they’re there 😦

Oh my God.  I was going to die, I was sure of it (clearly, I didn’t.)  Max said it was probably just irritation from the sand.  They didn’t itch that badly anyways…so I agreed to hold tight.  I am a hypochondriac after all…and I slept on the ground in the sand with a crappy airplane blanket the night before.  I put the scorpion pamphlet away and tried to focus on how miserable the heat was to walk in with my heavy pack.  Distracting enough.

The beach was about two and a half hour’s walk from the river…uphill.  Luckily we got some girls to give us a lift most of the way to the top of the hill where the road ended and the trek began.  We bought some fruit and water for the way and hiked in.  So much for my rinse in the river that morning—by the time we could see what was probably Hippie Beach we were both drenched and smelly.  I tried to keep the whining down to a minimum but really, there’s only so much I can restrain myself.  I was definitely ready to take the first campsite available when we got down to the river again…but Maxi was more in the mood to explore for the perfect place I guess.


^^Me NOT whining

There were old campers, young campers, families out for the weekend, and even semi-permanent residents (some people seemed to just live their summers there…) It really was incredibly similar to Fort Collins’ landscape by the Poudre but with an even more relaxed vibe.  After Maxi and I finally spread the tarp out in our “perfect” camping spot we did the only logical thing—strip.  And get into our swim suits of course 😛  While I was relieved to be out of normal clothing I was positively alarmed by the amount of ‘bug bites’ I had.  I knew they weren’t bug bites.  It was some sort of rash.  Most likely caused by lethal scorpions.  Big red welts all over my legs and stomach and arms and everywhere—EVERYWHERE—decorated my skin.  They itched too, but not as badly as mosquito bites.  I showed Max again and he repeated I should probably hold off on worrying for at least a couple of days.  There was nothing we could do anyways except let the cool river water heal me.  I promised myself to stay hypersensitive to any waves of nausea.


Splash.  Total relief.  Harsh heat and frigid cold seemed to be the weather’s only two settings here in Cordoba, but cool water, alcohol, friends, and camp fires helped make it bearable.  After a short swim I went and washed my clothes in the river while Maxi napped and explored.  It wasn’t too crowded really and it was amazing to be out of the city, away from roads in the peace and quiet.   We relaxed and ate our fruit.  Just thinking about our day makes me close my eyes and yearn for that kind of carefree relaxation right now.  Such bliss.


As the hours flew by, I decided to gather as much dry firewood as possible.  I would keep the fire going as long as possible tonight to avoid a repeat of the anterior.  Mala suerte.  There didn’t seem to be dry wood ANYWHERE.  I did find a small dead tree like half a mile away that I drug back to our tarp, but it turned out to be surprisingly little firewood.  Instead, Max and I cooked dinner and decided we’d just go join someone else’s campfire with a peace offering of fernet.  Hippies are all about peace, love and sharing right?


Yup!  We ate our dinner in the dark on our tarp.  There were loud questionable moans coming from down the hill so we didn’t dare venture away for fear of who’s free love we’d walk in on.  Instead we laid low for the next twenty minutes or so…  Awkward.  But at least we were able to laugh about it.  When I finished my last bite, I layered up and followed the light of campfire down the hill.  We met Franco, Nacho, and Diego who were all university students from Cordoba capital; we played the guitar and drank fernet and crappy wine and laughed and talked while enjoying the fire.  Halfway through the night some drunk old men who made a habit of camping on the beach and mooching off the tourists’ liquor and smokes joined us and it was officially a hippy fest.  I’m pretty sure I remained the only girl all night, but I officially let my hippy side take over.




It grew colder and colder.  Not even the fernet could keep me warm by the time sleep got a hold of me and the boys offered us their extra tent.  I brought my airplane blanket in with me, even though I didn’t quite trust it anymore as my rash was growing worse, and crashed.  I couldn’t sleep past nine AM as the sun conquered the night’s freeze and determined to prove its superiority by cooking us.  Note to self: Take vengeance on the sun for never being there when I want it to.


Maxi and I had decided to spend half the next day in Playa de los Hippie before hiking out and hitching back to Carlos Paz and onward.  We wanted to make it to La Rioja, a little tourist city in the mountains, for New Year’s.  After we ate some bread and washed any last dregs of hangover off in the river we decided to explore the river and found the dique.  We were able to bring Maxi’s camera with us through the water in my Otter Box that I got free at CSU!  Below are some of the cool fotos.


Cold Blooded

Alright, let’s return to my crazy summer adventure and recount the next chapter.

I think I left off when we arrived in Cuesta Blanca and collapsed onto the beach bathing in sunlight and eating paltatomatomayonesa sandwiches.  Pretty pristine moment.  After we finished, I snapped into my swim suit and we crossed the bridge looking for an empty stretch of beach to get some sand between our toes.  It wasn’t hard to find.  We were just out of view of the bridge—a spot with shade, sun, and even a rock in the river perfect for dipping in just up to your ankles.  We spent the next few hours enjoying the paradise of the sun and water, fooling around on the guitar, and cat napping.

The sand was full of micah and had a surreal sparkle in the sunlight.  I couldn’t really capture it with my camera but here are my best attempts:


I woke up before Maxi and went and splurged on a bottle of fernet and some Coca-Cola at the convenience store to celebrate our successful arrival to the beach.


Turned out Max was hiding some celebration refreshments as well—his favorite crappy cheap wine, Santa Ana.  We gathered sticks for a camp fire and I expertly built the twig and showed off my superior boy scout skills.  Max busied himself breaking apart the dead branches we’d dragged down to the beach saying, “Yeah, well…see, I was always the one who helped put the tent up, ya know?  Not actually starting a camp fire…”  It’s ok, I had his back.  I only learned how to build a campfire a couple of years ago and am still embarrassed that I went through the majority of my life not knowing how to strike a match and perform an essential survival skill…This time I was incredibly proud as we sat near the fire drinking ferne y coca and vino from the bottle and eating the rest of the avocadoes and tomatoes we’d purchased earlier.


We talked for hours about politics, the benefits of hitch hiking, Maxi’s adventures through Israel, and our excitement about what was to come in the next two months we had to travel.  It was great to connect a little with Max but we still managed to avoid any personal details about our lives like family and friends back home, girlfriends/boyfriends, and deeper philosophies.  For me it is not very common to spend more than four or five hours talking with someone and somehow skirt around these topics, especially when we’re drinking, but Maxi and I talked and talked about everything but.


At some point in the conversation I curled up next to the campfire with just my stolen airplane blanket and fell asleep. I don’t know when exactly I dropped dead, but I know that we were mid conversation and I know exactly when I woke up.

I woke up and it was still dark, the flames had turned to embers and smoke and the stars were incredible.  I didn’t see anything though.  I could only feel.  Cold.  So, so COLD.  I could barely move I was so cold.  I wrapped myself like a burrito in my paper thin airplane blanket that didn’t even cover my toes and shook for what seemed like hours trying to fall back asleep.  At last, I surrendered and made a break for my backpack tearing out every single shirt I owned and layering them on, changing into jeans and dawning as many pairs of socks as would fit into my shoes.  I had no regard for where my articles of clothing flew in my freeze-fueled frenzy and I think it would’ve looked like a yard sale of my intimates on the beach if it weren’t so dark.  My jacket barely fit over the layered clothing that did manage to make it onto my body.  I returned to my poor excuse for a blanket none the warmer and shivered for another ten minutes before I started literally crying.

I wasn’t too quiet about it either, but I don’t remember ever being so miserably cold in my life.  (Not before that moment anyways…there were other episodes like this during the trip.  This is the most memorable though.)  I finally caved and decided to wake up Maxi to see if he could spare part of his sleeping bag.  I started out my attempts to wake him none too subtly by shaking his shoulders and crying in his face.  He didn’t budge.  The wine had apparently cut him off from this dimension and he lacked any sense of consciousness.  I was desperate.  I was half-yelling half-crying and probably sounded like a dying werewolf.  As a last resort I hobbled to the fire and literally sat in the embers.


It was a short-lived relief, but it had the desired effect.  I alternated putting different body parts in the remains of the fire and singing my clothing until I had melted all of the icicles down to my fingertips.  I laid out my airplane blanket on the rocks next to the fire and stuck my face as close to the embers as possible without burning the skin off of my nose, still crying.  Suddenly, I froze (pun intended.)


Even though I couldn’t wake Maxi, I had apparently waken somebody else up and froze in fear when I saw a flashlight and heard an, “Hola,” aimed in our direction.  Maybe I was being overdramatic with the cold thing.  Were we even allowed to camp on the beach?  Did maybe one of the people who lived in the town worry and call the police?  Why couldn’t I wake Maxi up?!  What was I going to tell these people if they stumbled upon our camp and found two foreigners trying to explain themselves amidst the remains of wine bottles and my entire collection of underwear sprinkled across the sand???  I held my breath, but the “hola”’s kept coming.

The Last Stretch To Paradise

After an enlightening night in the gas station in a town we didn’t know the name of and a breakfast of half a chocolate bar and grapefruit flavored gaseosa, Maxi and I gathered all of our fully charged electronics and trudged to the entrance waving chau to the night shift gas station attendant.  Even though we didn’t speak I feel like we bonded.


I felt like a total vagrant slugging out from the gas station still wearing my pajama pants, my greasy hair jammed haphazardly into a sloppy bun behind me.  I dragged my feet after Max.  We crossed the street, walked a block to the turn pike and let our backpacks crash to the ground underneath a tree on the side of the road–ready to start the next leg of the journey!  I made a sign from the only weathered looking piece of cardboard I could find.  Trying to make it pretty and friendly, I drew a peace sign…but kind of mixed it up in my fatigue with a Mercedez-Benz logo.  Hmmm capitalism vs. peace and love.


I didn’t know which was which and Maxi wasn’t sure either.  If I accidentally put a Mercedes-Benz sign on my hitchhiking sign would that seem presumptuous?  Like we were looking for a super sly ride or something? While my exhausted brain was pondering this, a man passed and told me that I had left my extra set of shoes at the gas station. Yep.  I was officially beat.  I ran to get my shoes; the employees had switched shifts but the night lady was still there and she wished us luck as she handed them to me with a smile.  Everyone was so nice.

When I got back to Maxi I had hardly torn off the peace sign/Mercedes-Benz cardboard creation and taken out the guitar to practice my new skills when a car pulled up offering us a ride.  The man was wearing a blue uniform that looked like it would be miserable when the midday heat inevitably arrived.  He told us his name was Adrian and that he worked in factory in a suburb close to Carlos Paz.  He had to be to work at 8 AM so he didn’t have time to bring us all the way but he’d take us as far as another turn pike where everyone would be destined for Carlos Paz.  We talked about his job, his family (three daughters and a wife), his dog (a big fluffy Golden Retriever named Guver), and the co-op residencias that lined the highway.  They looked surreal—so many of these plain-colored cement walls with tiny windows strategically placed to fit the most possible into the space they occupied.  It reminded me of a game of Rush Hour but with houses instead of cars.  To be honest, I wasn’t even quite sure what a co-op was until I asked Adrian.  He explained to us that it was very hard to make a living working in the many factories that surrounded Cordoba, so families built their houses attached to each other and shared utility bills.


^^This is not my picture, it’s a google image search result for co-op housing but is really similar to the type of buildings we saw outside Cordoba Capital.  The ones I saw were the colors from an Easter palette and looked like a giant cement labyrinth they were so tightly arranged.

Adrian had luckily been able to move his family outside Cordoba capital to a much nicer suburb with their own house and even a yard for Guver.  The family would pass their vacation times in Cuesta Blanca (Maxi and I’s destination) in a couple of weeks and he assured us that it was hermoso (beautiful.)

As we got caught up talking I realized twenty minutes had passed and it was ten till eight!  I told him this and offered to have him drop us off on the side of the road so he could get to work on time.  He politely declined and said he had decided to take us all the way to Carlos Paz, a total of 30 more km out of his way!!!  Maxi and I were incredibly grateful and it only doubled my consternation as to how much luck with hitchhiking we were having.  Although Max had told me time and time again that hitchhiking was always this way because the people who pick you up have either done the same thing at some point in their lives or were genuinely interested to talk to and help you, I still struggled to believe it.  I had the hardest time seeing why people would do something so…nice without anything in return (or at least that was how my Statian brain analyzed it.)

The factory Adrian worked in transformed raw materials into parts for cement and metal bridges and I’m sure he wasn’t too eager to arrive to work on time, but it still boggled my mind that he would arrive nearly 30 minutes late to work to bring two dirty, stinky, foreigners with tacky accents that far out of his way.  As we said goodbye, Adrian gave us his phone number and email address in case we ever needed anything or just wanted to keep him posted as to our whereabouts.

My first priority when we got out of the car on the outskirts of Carlos Paz was a bathroom; second was food.  Both were urgent matters and we set off.  It felt like we had walked 30 blocks before I finally found a place to go, and Maxi was more preoccupied with food so by the time we found a supermarket we were both exhausted and cranky.  That’s putting it lightly.  We asked around for which bus would take us to Cuesta Blanca and we never got a clear answer.  There were fifteen different kinds of “white ones” so how were we supposed to know which ones to flag down???  The only fail-safe solution was all of them.  Luckily the drivers who had to pull over didn’t mind too much, but between their Cordobes accent and the street noise we didn’t get much more of a detailed description of the right bus out of them.  After three or four busses passed I was officially in a grumpy mood and the closest available scapegoat was Maxi.  I slumped onto the bus bench with my scowl for company.  Commence making sure Max knew how unhappy I was.  Looking back, he was really surprisingly tolerant of my random tantrums throughout our time traveling together.

Sometimes hitchhiking is not the most comfortable method of traveling.  It is rewarding in that you get an inside look into the culture, have interesting conversations with even more interesting people, and it’s generally much more comfortable (and warmer!) than the big double decker busses.  Long, hot hours waiting in the sun, lack of sleep, and being on someone else’s time clock can often abrade nerves and fuel conflicts though.  Maxi and I did a pretty excellent job considering he was used to traveling alone and I’m a bit of a diva sometimes (cough cough.) But all jest aside, thanks for putting up with me Max, and sorry I was a drag to travel with on occasion…

When the right bus finally passed and we managed to cram all of our things into one seat (an admirable feat) we settled in for the hour bus ride to Cuesta Blanca.  The paved roads turned to dirt, the houses to trees, and my state of consciousness to OFF.  When Maxi woke me up I dizzily stumbled off the bus with all my things–disoriented and craving sleep but in a much better mood.  Ah, I remembered this place. I took a deep breath of clean, crisp, sierra air.  The landscape and the climate reminded me so much of my Colorado home ❤


We walked up a hill and crossed a bridge to “town.” A boy who looked about eight years old passed us on an ATV with three other kids on the back in a tangle of limbs kicking up a cloud of dust in his wake.


^^This is not a picture of the 8-year-old boy but one I took my first time around in Cuesta Blanca in August last semester.  It is not an uncommon scene.

We looked around at where we were.  It really was beautiful.  It was really quiet (once the underage driver was gone.) It was really rural.  It was perfect. 🙂


There were two one-aisle grocery stores on opposite sides of the only street.  We conquered this tough decision in a matter of hunger-fueled seconds and bought bread, tomato, mayonnaise and palta (avocado.)  Little did we know that this (sans the luxury of the mayo) would become a staple diet for us throughout Cordoba, Tucuman, Salta, and Jujuy.  We enjoyed every bite though.  It was picture perfect as the sun caressed our toes lounging on the beach listening to the calm river water wandering away from us.


This is making me hungry…I’m going to go eat something.  Thanks for reading!

Origins of My Future Son’s Name

If my first hitchhiking experience was lacking one thing it would be the conversation with the drivers.  Although Max and I talked a little bit during the voyage in the Fiat, we were both drained and didn’t have all that much to say that we hadn’t already.  We were running off gas station coffee and honey roasted peanuts…certainly not the most effective forms of alimentation.  Maxi also uses words much more sparingly than I do.  Most people do, but he saves them exceptionally well for extra power when it really matters.  I envy people like that.  It takes vassal amounts of energy for me to stay quiet for even a half hour—it has been done, but it’s very unlikely you’ve witnessed the feat.  For me, the conversations and people were by far the most rewarding aspects of hitchhiking.

Mariano and the family from Cordoba said their goodbyes to us in a tiny town outside of Cordoba that was named something like Oliva (I don’t remember the exact name.)  It wouldn’t be acceptable for him to drive us all the way to the center where he worked so he dropped us off as close as he could.

Image^^Me outside of a cool-looking rundown gas station in Oliva
Image^^Cool sign in Oliva and me being picture happy

We walked through town, which consisted of one main street, with all of our things and finally parked at a gas station in the center. I made a sign and we attempted to hitchhike…well Maxi attempted.  I was still being super shy and kind of set my sign on the street corner and stood by it.  Don’t worry, I got much better; but the first few weeks for me were spent climbing the learning curve.


At about 5 PM, after giving up at the gas station and two hours of walking down the road at a lazy pace, we got a ride from Hernan about 30 km (18.6 miles) to the next town over.

This ride was definitely unique from the first one that we’d experienced.  Maxi was shoved into the back seat with ALL of his effects…his nose nearly plucking the guitar strings smushed against his resilient grin.  I sat in the front, only slightly more comfortable, with all of my things in my lap piled snuggly up under my chin.  The car was on its last miles.  I watched the asphalt race by through the holes in the floor by the stick shift as I tried desperately and unsuccessfully to understand Hernan over the rattling of the rusty metal.  How come I couldn’t understand him?!  I had been communicating quite smoothly thus far, to my ample pride and surprise.  But Hernan was speaking half Spanish and half gobbledygook.  The jangling and jolting of the ancient car didn’t help. From the 75% that I was able to understand though, he seemed interesting enough.  He dropped us off at the bus station in the next town over and wished us the best of luck.  It was getting dark and cold by the time we’d agreed that tickets to Villa Carlos Paz (connection through Cordoba) were too expensive for us ratas (about $10.50 USD.)  We decided to keep trying at hitching anyways.  The little bus station was open 24 hours so…if worse came to worse….

Image^^Hey, it’s nicer than some of the places we ended up staying

Luckily, just as I had changed into jeans and pep talked myself for a rough night of cuddling street dogs in the bus station, a truck driver stopped at the stop light and offered us a lift.  The truck driver who’d picked us up was indeed from Cordoba and, of course, not headed there.  In fact, when I told Maxi we should just take the ride I was still only half sure that he was headed in the same direction.  Did they speak a different language in Cordoba?  And then I remembered…oh…they have a completely different accent.  I flash-backed to a memory of my host brother smacking his fingers to his lips saying, “Uuuuyyy mmmmm, el accento Cordobés. Me muero.” I think it would be the equivalent of learning Colorado’s English and then taking an excursion to Texas—even I would have to focus a bit more to understand.  The fact that Spanish was my second language and I was still a fledgling Argentine made Cordoba’s accent all that much more difficult, but I quickly got used to it after a couple of days.  Good prep for Brazilian Portuguese.

He was at least going in the same direction and for Maxi and I it was “Cordoba or Bust!” so we’d take what we could get.  We had lots of room in the front of his truck and we settled in for the ride quite nicely.  Diego, the truck driver, was transporting a truck full of Quilmes to Jesús María, a town outside of Cordoba Capital but would drop us off at the turn point to Villa Carlos Paz, which would be even better for hitchhiking than attempting to do so from the capital.


^^See how the turnpike is kind of far out of the city?

Recalling it now it feels like we must have spent hours talking about family, travel and life but when I look at Google Maps I see that it wasn’t a very long journey—only about 90 km (55 miles.)  That means that we only spent an hour or so with Diego.  Diego’s 30th birthday was coming up on New Year’s Eve and he was going to have to spend it alone because of his job.  Here is what I wrote about Diego on my napkin-journal in my state of zombified chocolate high at the gas station we slept in (aka excuse my uninteresting/stream-of-consciousness writing):

“Diego spends his life on the road as a truck driver because he needs the money to support his family—his wife of twenty-six and five-year-old son, Thiago.  I am in love with the name Thiago (Tee-Aww-Go).  Like when I heard the name I seriously just felt some of the wires in my brain spark.  I am going to name my future son Thiago.  Posta.  I don’t care if he’s not even like anything at all Spanish or Argentine or ***************.  That’s gonna be his name.  So there. Anyways, Diego’s story just moved me.  He talked about how much he missed his family and showed us photos on his phone.  He told us that for Christmas he did get to go home, but he literally arrived at 6 PM Christmas Eve and left at 6 PM the next day to work a straight 18-hour shift, leaving him trying to balance between rest and celebrating (reuniting) with his family.  I think Maxi understood some of the conversation but it would have been hard to talk much even if he did so I spoke the whole time and tried to understand Diego’s Cordobes accent.  This trip he was headed to Jesús María and then up through Argentina all the way to the border with Bolivia.  His wife and son would meet him in Jesús María because it was relatively close to Cordoba to pass the day driving with him the upcoming day and he was really excited to see them.  Then, they’d take a bus back home—it was one of the only ways they got to spend time with him.  He mentioned that he and his wife had been considering getting jobs at Musimundo in Cordoba so that they would be able to go home together and be a family, but being a truck driver paid the bills and it would be a big risk to give that up for a day job.  I mean, he even told us that when he got to the border of Bolivia he’d have about eight hours to rest but planned on instead spending many of them on Bolivian soil shopping for gifts and clothing for his family because it was so much cheaper and they just couldn’t afford it here in Argentina.


“He said both his dad and his uncle drove trucks too.  He had a sister and a brother.  His sister was in her early twenties and studied theater and acting in Cordoba because it was what she loved.  His brother was six years old and had died six months before.  Yes.  Died.  At first I didn’t think I understood the Spanish but I knew by the look on Diego’s face as he talked about him.  A muted and resigned sorrow in his eyes.  I didn’t know how to say sorry in Spanish and I just…really didn’t know what to say at all.  His story was tragic to me.  He told me that both he and his father were working at the time and not allowed to leave their jobs for 2 days despite hearing the news and, even then, they had had to drive home from wherever it was they were at.  I was speechless.  Sometimes with Spanish I feel like it’s rude to have serious conversations.  I know that this is ridiculous and because I’m living my life in Spanish now it’s unavoidable.  I just sometimes feel like the nerdy kid in class who everyone rolls their eyes at who speaks in an Argentine accent.  Like ok, kid, you’re cool, now shut up.  This time I was not only afraid to speak because it seemed less genuine in my heavy yankee accent, but also because I’ve yet to truly learn what to say in these types of situations.  It’s already tremendously difficult to be a friend to someone who’s been through a hardship but I didn’t even know Diego for 30 minutes and felt the need to comfort him.  The best thing I could do was keep him talking and listen.  He said that it was very hard at first because his trucking job only gave him about a week off, and driving by yourself gives you a lot of time for thinking.  Too much time.  It’s easy to get lost in reverie.  But through the last couple of months he’d been coming to terms with it.  The hardest thing was that his child and his brother were so close in age and…now they don’t have each other, nor does his son really understand what happened.  As he left us at a gas station by the turn pike (he insisted on buying us candy bars and orange juice despite our assuring him that this was utterly unnecessary), I was left thinking about the kindness he’d shown us despite all of the adversity he’d faced.  So much has happened in the last three days and I’ve learned so much that sleeping is out of the question…”  I think that, although long-winded and written by an exhausted, clearly brain-dead individual, this explanation does a little more justice to Diego than any I could’ve written right now.

We got to the gas station at 11 PM and spent the night at a table inside where we could plug in our electronics and try to tune out the TV and get some rest.  Little did I know how much I’d begun to change and think…and how much I should’ve tried to rest because it would be a bit more comfortable than other future choices we’d make.  I slept a grand total of 12 minutes and ended up asking the cashier for napkins in the morning to write the above at 6:34 AM.  I spent the night boludeando on Maxi’s computer and learning a song on his guitar from tabs I found online.  I knew literally nothing about the guitar (now I own one 😉 ) so it was a lengthy process involving many YouTube videos and second-rate tablature websites.


^^Maxi getting some Z’s 😛


^^And then the morning!

Well look at that guys!  I made it through another day of my trip.  You can only imagine by these accounts of my first few days how much I learned and grew through the rest of the adventure.  It sincerely was a journey.

Surviving in Style

So, turns out that not many of you actually knew that I was going to go traveling all summer.  This is not an accident… I’m sorry I didn’t tell you all the deets but I had mixed feelings about the trip, and it was an impulsive, irresponsible, and last-minute decision.  From before I even left the States for Argentina I had been planning some sort of extensive trip through South America during the Argentine summer (December-February), but things didn’t quite go to plan as I’d expected financially.  Trip cancelled.  I wasn’t tooooo upset though.  My friends had invited me to spend 5 days including New Year’s with them on an island in Tigre which sounded awesome, I’d be spending Christmas with my host family, and I still had plenty left to explore and get to know in Buenos Aires.  Staying would be comfortable and I’d still have a marvelous summer.  Then came along Maxi.


Max sent me a couch request on a site called  (go there if you don’t know what it is because I’m too lazy to explain it or read this blog about how freaking awesome it is) asking for a place to stay in Buenos Aires.  He was traveling for eight months in South America after doing an intensive month of Spanish in Chile by hitch hiking.  Obviously I couldn’t offer him a place to stay because I live with a family, but I told him we could meet up and I could show him what little I know about the city.  It was his birthday so we made a chocotorta (dulce de leche with chocolate graham crackers and cream…ummm duh) and then tried to rent free city bikes and visit some of the parks in the city.  We only managed to get our hands on one bike…so while we attempted to ride it together quite comically through the traffic-heavy streets of the city, he told me all about the places he planned on visiting and how he’d hitchhiked all the way from Santiago, Chile to Buenos Aires, Argentina and what a great experience it was and and and and…well I got that little Autumn urge that sometimes often makes me do crazy things.

After thinking about it for not nearly enough time and bouncing the idea off a few friends—“So I’m thinking of going hitch hiking around a country I don’t know very well with this guy from Germany I just met through an online travel site, what do you think?”—and receiving, cough, mixed, cough cough, advice and opinions, I decided to jump ship and go anyways.  You only live once, and I AM supposed to be on a crazy one-year adventure in Argentina, so I found excuse to go.  I was both terrified and thrilled by the idea of hitchhiking.  It sounds so adventurous and hippy-glamorous to a young person like me; it sounds so dangerous and rash to a mother…like my mom.  Consequently, I kept all that hitchhiking/sleeping in gas stations stuff on the down low, which may be why you didn’t hear that much about it before I left.  I honestly didn’t like telling people that I’d be thumbing rides because I expected negativity and fear among the people that cared about me.  Only about 90% of the time was I actually met with negativity and fear before I left; now that I’m back 90% seem to think it was a cool idea…thanks for the support, guys.

Clearly, I didn’t die (until Bolivia but that’s a whole other tangent.)

Because I decided to spend Christmas with my host family, and Maxi was getting anxious and antsy to leave Buenos Aires, he went on ahead without me.

Image^^Totally went swimming on Christmas 😛

I had to take a bus from Buenos Aires to Rosario to meet him the day after Christmas (about 185 miles or 298 kilometers.)  I packed up my things, emptied out my backpack, put half of my things back in the closet, packed up my things again, took out another half of my things in order to shut my backpack, cleaned my room, said goodbye to my host mom and set out for the bus station.  The decision to leave was so rushed that I didn’t even really get to say goodbye to the rest of my host family.  I didn’t feel anything while riding to the bus station.  Not nervousness, not excitement, not fear.  I was attempting to suppress all of my feelings in order to focus on getting to Rosario and Max all by myself.  All of those emotions hit me at once when I arrived to the platform in Buenos Aires waiting to board the bus.  It wasn’t very much fun.  It felt like I’d eaten too much, had to pee, and couldn’t breathe all at the same time.  No bueno.  What the ;akshg;aihsg was I thinking?!  We didn’t even really know where we were going!!!  I was the only one who could really understand Spanish well and even then it was more than obvious that I was a foreigner if I spoke more than two words.  Scenes from Taken kept flashing behind my eyelids every I blinked.  I sat down, swallowed and took a deep breath, mentally encouraging myself to be strong.  I finally managed to settle down by going over and over the directions to the hostel Max was staying at in Rosario and reminding myself not to talk to cute foreign French guys because they might abduct me like in the movie.  Deep breaths.

The bus ride was uneventful.  Halfway through we got a second rate ham and cheese sandwich with what I think were supposed to be crackers; vegetarian translation: some bread and cheese.  I tried to enjoy my ungrilled cheese while watching the quality Hollywood entertainment on the mini screen in front of me (Twilight) and admiring my nails.  I realized that painting them before I left had been a waste of time.


Dainty nails and roughing it on the road don’t really go well together.  I realized I was going to have to put my glamorous side away and find my inner granola girl…and soon.  I fell asleep imagining myself chasing animals with a sharpened stick, brambles and sticks in my tangled hair wearing rags and sporting chipped fingernail polish, a real survivor Autumn.

When I woke up we had arrived in Rosario.  I checked my (Otto’s) iPhone and it was about 1 in the morning, not prime time to walk the 20 blocks with all of my things to Max’s hostel…I was exhausted, but I kept telling myself to pony up—after all I planned on “backpacking” all summer and couldn’t wimp out on my first night!  Think of the survivor Autumn, think of the survivor Autumn!  Things went smoothly.  I arrived, hugged Maxi, showered, and fell asleep.  We ate continental breakfast in the morning and talked with the friends Max had made in the hostel the night before.  Moshe, an Israeli who was also traveling South America, gave us some advice about Peru and Ecuador (although we didn’t really plan on making it that far) and I made friends with the hostel kitten, Lorenzo.


As we were paying and checking out I began to grow nervous again.  We had a new destination in mind—Villa Carlos Paz and Cuesta Blanca.  Maxi had stumbled across it online and fallen in love virtually; I had already been there once before in August when I visited Cordoba and knew it was beautiful.  I just wasn’t so sure how we were going to get there…  Maxi asked the girl at the front desk where it would be easy to get a ride hitchhiking and my stomach started to practice acrobatics.  She told us where to catch the bus out of town, one that would head to an intersection on the highway where lots of trucks would be heading to Cordoba.  The girl talked to us about where we were headed, etc, casually interested and told us about the time she hitchhiked with friends all the way to Uruguay.  My stomach started to calm down a bit but still seemed ready to flip.  We walked to the corner, said goodbye to the friends we’d made and caught the bus.  On the way we ate the honey roasted peanuts and raisins I’d bought before leaving Buenos Aires.  I was eating out of nervousness, and those of you who know me know that it’s not a very classy process.  My hands were covered in sticky-raisin-honey dust-goo as I shoved handfuls of the mixture in my mouth and I think the guys sitting across from me were trying not to gawk, but I didn’t care.  I was about to dance around on a street corner asking some random strangers for a ride in a foreign country, let me eat my peanuts the way I want.

We arrived and situated ourselves on the street corner.  There was a lot of traffic and Maxi confirmed that we’d found a pretty good spot.  Underneath all of my nervousness I could feel the excitement, the sun was shining solidly and the combination made me giddy.  I was way too entertained by the following Fireworks sign.


We didn’t have to wait under the sun for very long though, as the coolest ride ever pulled over.  I didn’t really think that this sort of thing happened and I expected hitchhiking to be a little miserable—windy tail gates, creepy men, uncomfortable temperatures, etc.  Not a double decker truck carrying 2013 Fiats.  Plus, they were going to take us just outside the capital of Cordoba, a distance of nearly 400 kilometers (250 miles.)  We got the penthouse Fiat, rolled down the windows, plugged in my mp3 player to the brand new surround sound system and commenced jamming out.  We were equipped with leftover peanuts that I didn’t devour in my pre-departure panic and could lay the seats back and nap if we wanted even.  The only real thing missing was an incredible view; the landscape between Rosario and Cordoba is mostly plains.  But there was nothing at all to complain about.

We stopped halfway to drink some coffee and get gas station snacks.  There was also a family riding in one of the Fiats on the bottom level of the truck, apparently friends of the driver, Mariano, who lived in Cordoba capital.  They said it was pretty common to be hitchhiking but that we should always have caution and stick together.  Mariano said the only reason he picked us up was because we were white as marshmallows (clearly not from here) and I was a girl (let’s face it, girls seem less likely to cut your throat.)  I was just elated with my beginner’s luck; if this was what hitch hiking was like then I was sold!  Bury that image of the scratched up, chipped nails, savage Autumn, I was on my way.

Anyways, this post is getting long and I’m being even more long winded than usual so I will post more for you later.  I am only on day 2….this is going to be quite the project.  Love you guys!  Thanks for reading!